We based ourselves in Bellano for a Lake Como trip centred on Varenna’s gardens, historic villas and meals beside the water. Hotel Meridiana put us directly on the lake, with a terrace where we could hear the waves before setting out each morning.
Our visits included Castello di Vezio, Villa Monastero, Villa Cipressi and Villa del Balbianello. Leaving time between them gave us space to walk, stop for drinks and enjoy the lake without turning the trip into a race between sights.
Hotel Meridiana’s lakeside restaurant
Staying at Hotel Meridiana, Bellano
At Hotel Meridiana, our terrace faced the lake, and the sound of the waves was a constant part of the stay. Ducks moved along the small stretch of sand below in the mornings. One afternoon, the wind carried a duck feather into the room.
Being this close to the water was what I valued most about our base in Bellano. We could enjoy the lake from the room as well as during our visits to the surrounding towns and villas.
Our terrace at Hotel Meridiana
Arriving on Lake Como
Narrow streets, faded façades and glimpses of water between buildings formed our first impressions of the lakeside towns. The mountains gave the views scale, while the old walls and small terraces made walking through the streets equally rewarding.
Castello di Vezio
Our first view of Lake Como from above was at Castello di Vezio, overlooking Varenna. From the castle, we could see the water stretching between the mountains and the towns along the shore.
The ruins were memorable in their own right. Ghost-like figures stood around the grounds, giving the visit an unexpected theatrical quality. The stone setting provided a different introduction to the lake before the gardens and villas we visited later.
Castello di Vezio, above Varenna
Bar Il Molo, Varenna
That evening, we had dinner at Bar Il Molo in Varenna. The setting was the main attraction for me: tables close to the water, colourful buildings along the shore and a view that changed as the evening light faded.
I remember it primarily as a place to sit beside the lake and enjoy Varenna at dusk.
Bar Il Molo, Varenna
Villa Monastero
The following day, we visited Villa Monastero in Varenna. Its botanical gardens and lakefront paths reward an unhurried walk, with views of the water opening between trees, walls and terraces.
I enjoyed the relationship between the planting and architecture: stone paths, windows and garden details kept drawing our attention back from the broader lake view. The gardens were one of the most enjoyable parts of our time in Varenna.
Villa Monastero, Varenna
Villa Cipressi, Varenna
Villa Cipressi
After Villa Monastero, we continued to Villa Cipressi. We walked through the gardens before sitting outside for drinks at the villa’s restaurant and bar area.
I ordered a Bellini, which arrived with small snacks, crisps and crackers. A small pool with a statue fountain stood beside our table. The sound of the fountain and the garden setting made this a particularly restful stop after walking.
I would leave time for a drink here rather than treating the gardens as a quick visit.
A Birthday Dinner in Bellano
We returned to Bellano that evening for a birthday dinner at La Dolce Vita. After the day’s visits to Varenna’s gardens and villas, it was good to spend the evening close to our base.
The dinner felt warm, relaxed and intimate. Its personal significance made it one of the evenings I remember most clearly from the trip.
Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como
Villa del Balbianello
Villa del Balbianello was one of the strongest visual impressions of the trip. Set on a wooded peninsula, it combines terraces, gardens and architecture with open views of the surrounding water.
Walking through the grounds, I was drawn to the cypress trees, shaded paths and the way the terraces frame the lake. The villa’s position is what makes it so striking: the water remains visible around the gardens rather than appearing only at a single viewpoint.
Planning a Lake Como Stay
For a similar trip, I would keep Bellano as a quiet lakeside base and allow enough time in Varenna for both Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi. Castello di Vezio offers the broad view from above; Villa del Balbianello deserves time for its grounds and terraces.
Staying directly beside the water was the choice that made the greatest difference to our visit. The lake remained part of the day even when we were back in our room.
Combining the lake with a city break? My Milan city guide covers hotels, restaurants and places to visit.